Returning to an emerging travel destination after a gap of a few years can often be a cause for disappointment. With the rush of unfettered development so often destroying the magic that makes a destination special, transforming it from pristine beauty to a tangled polluted mess, I wondered how much Sumba had changed since my first visit to the island. Would the lure of the tourist dollar have changed it forever or would the island’s wild nature and remote location have kept it off the radar?